UGA-Morocco Summer Program Orientation Guide
Spring 2004
Assembled by Filipe Afonso & Michael Fitzgerald (edited by Alan Godlas & Kenneth Honerkamp)
WHAT TO BRlNG………………………………………………………1
ARRIVING IN MOROCCO…………………………………………….3
HEALTH…………………………………………………………………3
MONEY…………………………………………………………………..6
ELECTRICITY……………………………………………………………7
COMPUTERS……………………………………………………………..7
COMMUNICATIONS (post, phone, internet)…………………………….7
TRANSPORTATION (in town and out of town)………………………….8
LEISURE-TIME ACTIVITIES (selected)………………………………..11
AMERICAN LANGUAGE CENTER (ALC) FACILITIES……………..12
IN AND AROUND MARRAKESH
(restaurants, shopping, places of worship)………………………….12
MISCELLANY (bibiliography)…………………………………………..13
LEGAL lSSUES (what's against the law, documents)…………………….14
CLIMATE………………………………………………………………….14
USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS AND URLS………………………..14
BRIEF NOTES ON THE LAND AND ITS PEOPLE
(Time, Identity, Languages, Islam, Clothes, Women, Relationships)….16
University of Georgia-Morocco Summer Program Orientation Guide
MARHABAN (meaning ‘welcome’ in Arabic)
This guide is meant to provide you with some easily accessible, practical information
about living in Marrakesh and to answer simple questions which may or may not occur to
someone new to this city . In most cases, the information is offered in order to save you time,
and in some cases to helip you stay healthy. It is fairly complete, but you should never hesitate to
ask about anything that is unclear or not covered in these pages.
Of necessity, most of what is in this guide could be called " trouble-shooting ". We hope,
however; that by having some of this practical information in advance, you will have a better
chance to discover the beauty of Morocco and the potentially rich and wonderful experience of
studying there.
Arrangement of the Guide
We have put practical things first, basically in order of when you might encounter them.
Numbers in [xx] between brackets refer to places on the city map, which we will be giving you. Towards the end of this guide are some small reflections on cuitural issues, but you should really try to read Culture Shock: Morocco, A Guide to Cusfoms and Etiquette by Orin Hargraves, Graphic Arts Center Publishing Company, Portland, Oregon, 1995 (This is one of many of the titles in the excellent Culture Shock series, which even includes Culture Shock: USA), along with one or more of the other books in the bibliography on page 13. If you are unable to locate these books before coming, the ALC keeps copies of them on reserve.
WHAT TO BRlNG
Clothes:
For both men and women, understated clothing is preferable in Marrakesh. Also, regardless of
the time of year you come to Marrakesh, it is wise to prepare for varied temperatures. See
Climate on page 14.
Long, loose clothing is often most comfortable and coolest during the warmer months
(from late June through the beginning of October).
Some kind of sun hat is good to have.
In are going to be in Marrakech in mid-winter, a rain-resistant jacket may be prove useful, as well as a warm sweater and even long underwear! (Houses and apartments get cold in the dead of winter). For clothes that might be inappropriate, see page 22.
Health-Related:
Pharmacies will usually have either the same brand of medicines as in the states or an equivalent.
If you wear glasses, it's not a bad idea to bring an extra pair or a copy of your prescription.
Although contact lens solution is readily available, it is about twice as expensive as in the US
and you might not find your favorite brand. Soft, disposable contacts are not sold in Morocco.
A few common non-prescription drugs in Europe and America, such as ibuprofen and multi-
symptom cold medicines, are not readily available in Morocco.
If your skin is sensitive to the sun, you might bring a little extra sun-screen. It is sold here, but
tends to be a bit expensive
Cameras, Music, Computers, etc.
Morocco is the photographer's dream. Good film is available (see below, page 11) but
cameras are expensive.
Music CD's costing 15 dollars in the States run 25 dollars or more here and the selection
is very limited. If you plan to bring your own portable CD or Cassette player, you may want to
weigh in the fact that unless it has multiple voltage, you'll need to use it with a converter (see
below page 9).
If you plan to bring a notebook computer, try to bring its sales receipt with you. Customs laws allow visitors to bring in a computer (notebook or even desktop) for personal use, but
technically they can ask that it be noted (with price, hence the receipt) in your passport and upon
leaving the country. If you don't have the computer with you, they can ask that you pay import
tax for having brought a computer into Morocco for the purpose of sales. In practice, this rarely
happens, and customs may not even look twice at what you're bringing in, but it's in the law
books. (see also page 7)
Money and related
American ATM cards can be used to make withdrawals (in dirhams) in Morocco. If you
wish to bring such a card, double check that it is working before leaving the States. Replacing a
damaged ATM card from Morocco can be very difficult and time consuming. Also check with
your bank as to the withdrawal limit you'd have in Morocco.
Hence ATM cards may not work dependably at night and on weekends. So make sure you have enough money to get through the weekends! Big hotels, which are open on weekends, do have money changing facilities, but getting to one may be a hassle.
It is always good to have a certain amount of cash. You will not always be able to use travellers’ checks.
You don't need to worry about getting dirhams in advance. Officially, they are a currency that is not imported, so they're fairly hard to find in the States, anyway.
Copy of Passport and Important Credit Card Information
Before you leave the States, you should make a copy of the significant pages of your passport and plastify them (which you can do at Kinkos).
Also, you should have written down all your Traveller’s check and credit card numbers, names, and contact information for each card, in case they are lost or stolen. Keep this information separate from your wallet.
ARRlVlNG IN MOROCCO
Try to have the white arrival card (which will generally be given toward the end of your flight) filled out and ready. The stamp they put on your passport (when you disembark and are in the airport) gives you the right to stay as a visitor for three months. When your luggage arrives, you can generally go straight through customs without stopping. Occasionally they may ask for people's suitcases to be opened.
HEALTH
General Notes
Standards of health care in Morocco are generally quite good, though government clinics
and hospitals often leave much to be desired. French-trained doctors, who often have
experience dealing with a wider variety of ailments than their Western counterparts, are plentiful
Their staffs are consistently well-informed and have a wide variety of drugs for over-the-counter
sale, many of which (such as antibiotics) would be available only by prescription in Europe or
North America.
The ailment you're most likely to encounter in Morocco is traveler's diarrhea, which is a
natural consequence of any change in diet and water flora. The best remedy for this is simply to
let it run its course: change your diet to plain rice, and avoid fresh fruit and raw vegetables. In
more severe cases, the best remedy is either Ercefuryl or lmodium which are available in
pharmacies in both 100 and 200 mg. capsules.
Foods to avoid (at least at first!)
Many stomach problems can be avoided by staying away from certain foods, especially
in your first couple of months in the country, and especially in hot weather. Among them:
1. Outdoor food stands in general. These places do not have hot water (or any connection to
running water, for that matter). The stands set up in the Jamalfna every evening offer really
beautiful, deiicious-smeiling food are very tempting, especially when you see them crowded with
tourists and Moroccans alike.
2. Anywhere selling freshly-squeezed orange juice, either in the Jamalfna or in a cafe. Nevertheless, Morocco has wonderful citrus fruit and you can buy very good bottled orange juice and other juices in the central market or even buy oranges and squeeze your own at home;
3. Soft drinks in cafes and cheap restaurants are best drunk straight from the bottle, and
certainly not from the freshly "rinsed", still- wet glass often set down on the table with you bottle
of Coke. Hot drinks such as coffee or tea; however; are served very hot (coffee is steamed in
the glass) and shouldn't present a problem
4. Raw fruits and vegetables (especially lettuce) that can't be peeled: this includes salads in
inexpensive restaurants (and initially even in expensive restaurants) At home, it is advisable to
soak raw vegetables in a solution of permanganate (available in small bottles in Pharmacies) or
5. Pastries with cream filling
6. Ice cream (in cones) from street vendors or doubtful-looking glaciers (ice-cream shops).
Commercially-produced ice cream in cartons and bars is sold in many places and is generally
safe.
This preceding list is not meant to make you paranoid - Moroccan food is really delicious and for
The most part, Moroccans eat a healthy diet: warm, freshly-baked bread available twice a day at
any corner grocery stand is a luxury you would be hard-pressed to find anywhere in America.
Water
Tap water in Marrakesh (and in most of the modern sections of larger towns) is safe, but again, drinking from a freshly- washed glass should also be avoided if possible. If you find yourself in
the Medina and very thirsty, find a shop that sells small bottles of Sidi Harazem water.
And generally, if you think you’re sensitive to the water, than boil it (10 minutes minimum) or stick to bottled mineral water, if possible. Brands widely available in Morocco include Sidi Ali, Sidi Harazem, and Hayat; Oulmes (pronounced Wul’mess) is a delicious sparkling water from the mountains between Rabat and Fes that is every bit as good as Perrier.
Bottled Gas:
Stoves, pressure-activated hot-water heaters and many portable room heaters in Morocco operate on bottled methane gas ("camping gas" or "butagaz" ). When methane burns it produces carbon monoxide which is deadly. Not many years ago two young American Peace Corps volunteers died from an illegally installed water heater. The same happened to an American researcher in Fes in 1999. These were all intelligent, educated people who were simply unaware of the danger of unventilated gas heaters. If you should find yourself in a situation where you are using bottled gas, please remember: don't use a gas stove and or oven in a completely closed kitchen. And don't use a
gas heater in a room without ventilation. DON’T use a **pressure-activated gas water heater** that does not have a direct vent to the outside, and under no circumstances should you use a water
heater mounted inside the bathroom in where you would take a shower. (Mounting a water heater in such a fashion is illegal in Morocco, but they do exist.)
Sun
The sun in Morocco is intense. Sometimes it seems closer than in America. Traditionally,
people in this country wore clothes that covered them and especially their heads. People in the
Sahara still do. You should be aware especially in the hotter months of how much sun you are
getting. The old saying " Only mad dogs and Englishmen are out in the midday heat " still
seems to hold true for many visitors to Morocco: while the " natives " find their way to cool
mosques to offer the midday prayer, and then home to lunch and a nap, you can often see
tourists on the verge of collapse, their faces beet red, trying to take in one more sight.
Heat exhaustion can be a problem in the summer months, particularly since it's often
difficuit in dry climates to notice how quickly the body loses moisture. Indications that you may
have been exposed to the heat too long include nausea, dizziness, headaches and sometimes
profuse sweating. Avoiding this discomfort is easy if you put a little extra salt in your food, drink
plenty of fluids (both of these to avoid dehydration) and wear a hat. If, despite precautions, you
find yourself suffering from the symptoms of heat exhaustion, the remedy is not to try to "cool
down" with vast quantities of cold liquids: this is in fact quite dangerous. Rest in a moderately
warm, not cold, place, and put on a sweater if you feel a chill. Eat a lot of salted snack food, or in small increments take a couple teaspoons of salt. This will help you retain water, which is
exactly what you need to do to avoid further dehydration. When you've had your fill of salted
food, slowly and over a period of time, drink as much room-temperature (not cold) liquid as
your system can stand.
Diseases in Morocco
Bilharzia is thought to be present in pools and streams in the south, so avoid contact with any
standing water in this region, no matter how clear it may look, particularly in oases.
Mosquitoes thrive in Morocco, notably in the south, but malaria is virtually non-existent.
Although not mandatory, it is probably a good idea to have typhoid, hepatitis A, tetanus, and
polio immunizations brought up to date before traveling to Morocco.
Should you feel you're coming down with something, please do contact the administration.
Pharmacies
In many cases, a pharmacist will be able to recommend a medicine for what ails you, saving you a wait in the doctor’s office. Business hours for pharmaces are typically from 8:30 to 12:30 in the mornings and 3:00 to 7:30 in the evenings. Hours of Pharmacies de garde (which stay open during off hours) are posted on every pharmacy’s door.
*Pharmacie Centrale: l66 Mohammed V Avenue, besides Marche Centrale, Ph: 43-01-58 (Map II #5. The proprietor, Abdelhamid Tazi (speaks French and a few words of English: is an extremely kind and helpful individual. If you use a Stateside medicine and are not sure of its name or availability in Morocco, Mr Tazi will be giad to help you look up the medicine or its equivalent. It is a good idea to bring either the bottle it came in or something else showing its name and ingredients:
*Pharmacie Nakhil [11: Yacoub El Mansour Avenue, Ph: 44-76-57 nearby the ALC stocks basic
medicines
*Pharmacie l’Unite on Avenue des Nations Unies [11] across from the Gendarmerie Royale sells
homeopathic remedies as well as the usual medicines.
*The Pharmacie near Marjane "hypermarche” is well stocked and besides the usual products
sells such things as protein powder and other supplements for athletes.
All-Night Pharmacies:
Gueliz: Near the Fire Station on Rue Khalid bin Oualid, Ph: 43-42-75 [12]
Jmaa EI-Fna: On the left of the Square, Ph: 39-02-38
Clinics and Private Hospitals
There are also a number of modern, privately-run clinics and hospitals in Marrakesh. It is better
to avoid government-run hospitals which treat the general, non-paying public and are frequently
understaffed and poorly equipped. The following clinics near the ALC are recommended:
Polyclinique du Sud, Rue Ibn Aicha [21] around the corner from the ALC has a long standing
reputation for good care in Marrakesh.
Clinique Ibn Rochd just off Boulevard Muhammad V [13]
Doctors
The following doctors and destists are recommended should serious health or dental problems
arise. If you need an interpreter (they all speak French and Arabic) or additional information, contact the administration.
General Practicioner: Gertrud Michaelis, 7 Rue Ibn Sina, Ph: 44-83-43 (near ALC)
(Speaks English, German, French and Moroccan Arabic)
Gynecologist: Claire B. Azzouzi, 5 Rue Sourya (near March~ of Gueliz), Ph: 43-44-46
Gastroenterologist: Abdesiam El Karouani, 48 Rue de la Liberte, (near MarchC of the Gueliz)
Ph: 43-26-82 (Speaks Spanish)
Pediatrician: Latifa Touzani, 5 Rue Mauritania, Ph: 43-07-10
Dentist: Fatima Mounouar, 43 Zerktouni Avenue [7], Ph: 44-84-64
Dentist: Naima Saad El Bichr, 4 corner of Rue Ibn Aicha and Tarik Bnou Ziad (21) , Ph: 44-67-34
See pages 19-20 for emergency numbers.
MONEY
General Notes
Morocco's official currency is the Dirham, which is broken down into 100 Centimes. If you
are speaking Moroccan Arabic or French, prices will be quoted to you in "francs" (= Centimes). If
you are speaking Moroccan Arabic, prices may be quoted in francs or "riyals" ( = 5 centimes). 1
DH = 20 Riyals = 100 Francs and 1,000 DH = 20,000 Riyals =100,000 Francs.
In your Moroccan Arabic course, you will leacn how to negociate in these potentially confusing denomations (and also how to ask that a price simply be quoted to you in dirhams).
Exchange Rates
Exchange rates vary slightly from week to week, with the new rates posted on Monday. The rate is currently 100 Moroccan dirhams to 9.12 US dollars, which is 11 Dirhams per one dollar. There is only one official bank rate throughout Morocco, so you don't need to shop around for better rates.
Banking
Banks in Morocco have regular business hours Monday through Friday from 8:15AM to
11:30AM and from 2:30PM to 4:30PM ( approximately ). Summer hours are usually straight from
8:15AM - 2:30PM. Hours during Ramadan, likewise, are continuous from 9:30AM to 2:30PM
Most banks in Gueliz are located on or near Mohammed V, including a couple in Zerktouni
Avenue, not far from the ALC. Most of these will cash traveler's checks at no extra charge. Many
larger hotels also have facilities for exchanging money. There are 24 hour automatic teller
machines (ATMs) located at most major banks in Gueliz, but these may not always be dependable. Accepted cards include Mastercard, Visa, Eurocard and cards on the PLUS and Cirrus networks.
Receiving Money from the States
Except in case of an emergency, do not plan on doing this. It is complicated, and ordinarily having money wired to Morocco can take 2 to 3 weeks. If you need to have money wired to you fast, there is a Western Union office in town on Mohammed V Avenue, next to Café Arabesque (Ph: 43-19-63) [14] . The fees are somewhat steep. Another method, as mentioned above, is with an ATM
card. Check with your bank before you leave as to the daily and weekly limit you are allowed in Morocco.
ELECTRlClTY
Voltage: 110 or 220 volts.
Electric current in most of the newer neighborhoods of Marrakech is all 220 volts, while much of
the Medina is still 110. Voltage converters of varying capacities and prices are sold in any Moroccan hardware shop and are generally cheaper than those you can find in the States.
Hotels may also vary between 110 and 220.
Plugs
Wall-plugs are the two-prong, round European type. US / European plug adapters are easy to
buy in Morocco, but it might be a good idea to bring one along:
Cycles: 50 or 60 cycles
All current in Morocco is 50 cycles per second whereas in the US it is 60, meaning that any US
appliance which heats up (coffee makers, hair dyers, heaters, heating pads, electric blankets)
will not reach its full heat in Morocco. In the days of American plug-in clocks, it was found that
these too did not work in Morocco. Check the appliance's voltage tab. Because of global
markets more and more appliances sold in the States are being produced with variable voltage
and cycles/sec.
COMPUTERS
Any notebook computer comes with an AC/DC transformer designed to run on voltage ranging
from 110 to 240. The only things that might be needed in Morocco are a flat prong to round-
prong plug adaptor and, in the case of lower priced notebooks it is a good idea to have a current
stablizer. Although current is generally stable in the newer portions of Marrakesh, even smail
surges can easily damage graphic cards in lower-priced notebook computers (e.g. Compaq
Presario).
All computers at the ALC Marrakesh are PCs. MACs are used in Morocco generally at printers
or other places involved in graphic design.
COMMUNICATIONS
Postal Services
Post Offices: The central post office in Marrakesh is located on the corner of Mohammed V and
Avenue Nations Unis [9], a 10 minute walk from the ALC. You may weigh your letters, buy
stamps, and send Registered Mail at the post-office from 8AM to 9PM, everyday, including
Sunday. Other services are available during regular work hours, 9AM-12PM, 3PM-6PM, Monday
though Friday.
Note: there is no postcard rate, postage being based on weight. Concerning receiving packages,
you should avoid having family or friends send electronic goods, cameras or audio cassettes
since the customs duty charged on such items can be exorbitant. Also, never have cash sent to
you by mail. For options, see the money section, page 8. Note: expect mail to or from the USA to
take a week to 10 days; from Europe a week is the norm.
Telephone
You may make calls from teleboutiques (small shops with pay phones and sometimes photocopy machines and fax services) using either a phone cared or change. The phone cards
which teleboutiques sell can only be used in teleboutiques run by the same company.
Some international calling cards, including MCI, AT&T, and British Telecom, have a direct
calling service from Morocco (you need the calling card and are billed to your home address at
lower U.S./British rates). You probably will not be able to use a calling card on a pay phone--
only from a private line. See page 14 for access numbers.
Do NOT make any form of long distance call from your homestay phone. In any emergency, call the American Language Center. Read the Emergency Packet information for more information (before the emergency). In cases of extreme emergency collect calls can be placed through a private phone line by dialing 12 for the operator and AT&T or other calling cards.
Note: as in the States and Europe, Morocco has more and less expensive calling hours.
The prime, full-rate time is Monday - Friday, 8 AM to 8 PM. All other times are minus 50% on
long-distance calls inside the country and minus 20% on international calls .
For international calls, dial "00", then dial the appropriate country code , then the number.
(Country code: USA =1, France=33, England=44. Germany = 49, Holland = 31, Spain 34).
Cell Phones
Nearly every part of Morocco is covered by cell phone service through the main
company, Maroc Telecom (Itissalat al-maghrib). The second company, Meditel, as of this writing
is not covered in certain rural regions and parts of the North, but works well in cities. The exact
same brands of cell phones used in the US are used in Morocco, but the systems are different.
This means that to use a phone from the States here you would need to purchase a card locally,
which can run 60 to 80 dollars and which includes an hour of calling time. Cell phone calls are still
expensive in this country, both for the caller and the one called.
lnternet Access
The ALC Marrakesh computer lab has an ISDN connection. This is on-line Mon-Saturday mornings, and visiting teachers are welcome to access lnternet e-mail accounts (Hotmail, Yahoo, etc. ) or surf the net during on-line hours and according to avaiiabiiity. This service is offered free to UGA-Morocco Students.
Another alternative is to make use of one of the many cybercafes in Marrakesh,
where one can buy a pack of " on-line " cards for as little as 5-10 dh/hour. These places tend to
be rather crowded and slow at night, but are usually fine during the day.
TRANSPORTATION
In Town
City Buses stop at the main Gueliz stop [6] and are quite reliable. However the buses can be
absolutely packed on some of the principle routes during peak hours. Buses run from 6AM to
between 8:30 and 9:00 in the evening; fares for routes within the city are 3DH while the fare for
those running outside city limits is slightly higher. NOTE: Crowded city buses in which
passengers ride standing up are notorious venues for pickpockets.
Private buses (such as the new air conditioned ALSA buses ) guarantee a seat. They cost a little more but are safer.
Petit Taxis are the small yellow city taxis with roof racks. They are abundant and relatively
inexpensive (about 8 DH from the ALC to the Jamalfna) and plentiful in the Ville Nouvelle. There
is rarely any difficulty flagging down a taxi, and they can be found at all hours at different taxi
stands (in front of the central market [4 ], or the taxi stand on Zerktouni [7]. Note that the
presence of a passenger in a taxi does not necessarily mean that the taxi is "taken"; one taxi
may take up to three separate passengers, picking them up along the way if their destinations
aren't too out of the way. If you get into an already-occupied taxi, note the amount on the meter
as you get in. Your fare should be the amount elapsed from getting into the taxi plus the initial
charge of 1.4 Dh. Drivers in Marrakesh usually use their meters without any hassle so you
aren't expected to bargain about the price. There is a 50% increase in the fare at night.
Unfortunateiy, there is no way of telephoning for a taxi in Marrakesh. A small tip is always
appreciated . For exampie, if the fare were 8 dh, a 2 dh tip, totalling 10 dh, would be quite fair.
Grand Taxis have routes within the city. Cost is about 5DH per seat.
Coachies are horse-drawn coaches. They are of two kinds: those that work by the hour for
tourists and those which follow fixed routes around the Medina. These latter are legimate public
transport carrying 5 or 6 people. A pleasant coachy route not far from the ALC runs from just
inside Bab Doukalla [23] and the Jamalfa and costs about 1 dh 50 centimes per person (prices
posted)
Walking is also great, and it is literally possible to walk from one end of Marrakesh to the other
in less than an hour, and it is an easy city to walk in. As can be seen from map II, the ALC is
located within easy walking distance from any place in the Gueliz, and oniy slightly further from
the nearest gate of the Medina, Bab Doukkala, Walking in the evening during the warmer months is a great pastime in Marrakech. Whole families go out together, as do couples, and small groups of friends. For information pertaining to women walking at night, see page 19 below.
Out of Town
Buses: There are two recommended bus companies traveling in and out of Marrakesh:
Supratours and CTM (the Moroccan Greyhound). Supratours travels only to the south of
Morocco, while the national bus company, CTM (Compagnie de Transports au Maroc), travels
to every region in Morocco, including the south. The coaches are generally quite fast, but you
can expect most buses to stop at a number of towns and cafes for l0 to 30 minutes between
destinations. CTM is located in Gueliz, on Zerktouni Avenue (Ph: 44-83-28) [19] . Supratours is
located on Hassan II Avenue besides the train station [18] (Ph: 43-55-25).
If CTM and Supratours buses do not fit your schedule, try the major bus station near Bab Doukala [23]. Many small bus companies operate out of this station and although their buses
are older, not as comfortable, and slower, you can almost be assured of a bus headed in the
right direction at any time of the day or night. Also, they serve smailer out-of-the-way locations
and are cheaper than CTM or Supratours. CTM buses also leave from this station before they
pick up in Gueliz (window #l0, Ph: 43-44-02).
Tickets can be purchased up to five days in advance. Purchasing tickets eariy for CTM or
Supratours trips is advised if you'll be traveling on the weekend or during holidays. Expect to
have to pay an additional 5 to 15 DH for iuggage. Be sure to arrive at the bus station 15-20
minutes before scheduled departure. The baggage handler will expect a two-dirham tip.
Trains: A rail network of about 2,500 kms. links all the major towns of Morocco, and the
Moroccan government has put a good deal into up-grading and maintaining lines over the past
years. On the whole, trains are modern, comfortable, and reliable. Most trains have first and
second classes. It may be worth the small extra charge for first-ciass to have a little more
personal space on peak routes, which are sometimes quite crowded. Some cheaper night trains
are older and can be uncomfortable and cold, especially in winter. The fast "direct" trains have
certain times, "couchettes" (night sleepers) are available. One word of caution: thieves and
pickpockets are not uncommon on trains in Morocco, particularly on overnight trips where
passengers are tired and not attentive of their belongings.
There is also an efficient line between Casablanca's international airport and Casablanca's two main train stations with regular 20 - 30 minute trips in either direction every hour or so.) The train station in Marrakesh is located on Hassan II Avenue (Ph: 44-65-69) [18]. You can get a free schedule at the ticket window. For the ONCF website where you can check times, see page 15.
Grand Taxis are shared Mercedes taxis, and cost about 20% - 50% more than a bus on the
same route, they are worth considering. If there are enough in your party to fill one taxi (6
passengers or the equivalent in fares) you can ask the driver to make stops to take photographs.
It's always best to settle on a price before you go. Note that sharing a car with 5 other
passengers can be very cramped. Some people like to pay for two seats to assure a
comfortable ride. Make sure you know what locals are paying for a particular trip as grand taxi
drivers are notorious for jacking up the fare for unsuspecting foreigners. In general, you can
count on paying 7-10 DH for every thirty km. Stations for grand taxis are scattered throughout
Marrakesh. Depending on destination you may have to leave from Bab Doukala, Bab Rob,
Jama'a Al-Fana, Bab Aghmat, etc. The biggest down-side of Grand Taxis is the way the drivers
sometimes drive.
Rental Cars and Driving in Morocco: Because of the various problems involved, we strongly discourage you from driving in Morocco. The major international car rental agencies are represented in Marrakesh as are seemingly dozens of local companies. Charges among the international companies vary only slightly so it is worthwhile to check with a number of locally-run agencies where rates are often significantly lower. Most agencies will ask for a credit card. A government tax of 19% must be paid on all rentals. Almost all cars take premium super gasoline which is around 8 DH/liter. For information on drivers licenses, please see Visas & Other Documentation on page 14.
Rental agencies in Gueliz include:
Avis: 137 Mohammed V Avenue, Ph: 43-37-23
Budget: 213 Mohammed V Avenue, Ph: 43-46-04
Hertz: 157 Mohammed V Avenue, Ph: 43-46-80
All are in the vicinity of the central market.
LElSURE-TlME ACTlVlTlES
Films, Music, Plays
The only movie theater that can be recommended is the Colissee which is air- conditioned, and quite comfortable. The films are mostly US box office hits dubbed in French.
Institut Francais de Marrakech (The French Cultural Center) the largest in the continent of
Africa, runs an interesting program of films, plays and musical performances (look for posters
and brochures near the front desk at the ALC).
Marrakesh has numerous small exercise clubs for aerobics, martial arts, and weight-lifting (offering separate days for men and women), a new, high-priced fitness club, two 18-hole golf courses, a tennis club (with pool), a soccer stadium, and basketball courts. Certain hotels
allow non-guests to use their pools for varying fees.
Hammam
The so-called "Turkish" or "Moorish" baths are considered not just places to get really
clean, but also to relax, waste an hour or so, and see friends. Hammams are separate for men
and women and cost about 5 dhs. Since there is so much social ritual attached to the hammam,
it's best to talk to a Moroccan in the office if you are thinking about going.
Traditional Sites
The Handicrafts Center on Avenue Mohammed V, near the Kutubia Mosque, has a wide
selection of handicraft items for sale. However, with a little experience you may get better prices
elsewhere. Marrakesh also has outstanding monuments, museums and gardens well worth
visiting. Look for details in one of the guide books available in the reference section of the library
(see Recommended Reading). One museum worth visiting, which is so new you may not find in
a guide, is the Museum of Marrakesh, located in the Old Medina near the Ben Yusuf Mosque
and Madrasa.
A great way to come to know Marrakech is to take a horse-carriage ride around the old
city walls. Slightly different tours are available but you should expect to pay about 80-100Dh for a one hour to hour and a half tour. These coaches can be rented in front of the Hotel Menara (off
Place de la Liberte, lower right hand corner of map).
Photography
Although most Moroccans are not overly sensitive to having their picture taken,
indiscriminately photographing people is not advisable: ask first. There are still instances when
one may encounter a hostile attitude by certain Moroccans at having a camera pointed in their
direction, and since this relates to religious beliefs, it is certainly better to opt for sensitivity. As
a resident of Marrakesh, you are in a much different position than a tourist who has to "take it all
in" and photograph it all in 2 or 3 days. (Note: There are several film developers on Mohammed V, near the central market. Fuji (directly across from the central market) is quite good.
Tour Guides and Hustlers
Marrakesh used to have a bad reputation for rather aggressive "faux guides" (non-official
guides, basically, hustlers). In the past few years, however, the city has made great strides to
eliminate this problem by instituting the "Tourist Brigade", special police who circulate in the
Medina and made sure people aren't getting hassled. If on your excursions into the Medina, you are approached by an effusive, “friendly” young man offering to show you the way, do not mistake this for sincere friendliness or local the street, except to ask for information; therefore, you should normally ignore such advances, or politely refuse their services, ideally in Arabic, explaining you are living and studying in Marrakesh. If one encounters a particularly persistent hustler, you might look for a policeman or agent of the Tourist Brigade, since pestering foreigners is against the law. Also keep in mind that anything you buy when accompanied by a clandestine guide will be more expensive, since he'll get a percentage from the shop owner.
ALC FAClLlTlES
The ALC Library
The ALC maintains an English language library for the use of its students and teachers.
Books are to be checked out from the librarian. In the reference section you will also find useful
books and guides.
The ALC also has a collection of over 400 videos of movies, US TV programs, and documentaries.
Computer Use: (see page 7 )
IN AND AROUND MARRAKESH
Eating Out
Without a doubt, the best place in town to have a pleasant, reasonably-priced,
non-Moroccan restaurant meal is the Catanzaro (number), which serves good pizzas
(including vegetarian) for around 35 dh each, other Italian dishes, and steaks for around
70. A good meal (without wine) could cost around 100. If you eat meat, it is generally
better to order it well-done (bien cuit) rather than rare. The Catanzaro is almost always
full at lunch hour (1 pm) and dinner hour, (around 9). Go a little earlier to find a table or
call for reservations (43-37-31).
For Moroccan food, there are many places, from the low-cost~to the world-
renown. A good compromise is to try Dar Fassia (number****** ) and order just the table of
really delicious "cooked salads". The place is comfortable without leaving you broke.
For those in need of the familiar:
McDonald's has been open in Marrakesh for about two years. It is actuallyjust
outside of town (as you come in from Casa), which some people might consider a
blessing. Strange to say, it is a favorite for families because of the children's play area.
Pizza Hut (number*****) has been in Marrakesh for about 5 years. The Pizzas are
around 60 dh, which is much higher than places like Cantanzar, and not really better.
Shopping
For students living in the Gueliz area, the central market will prove to be the easiest
place to shop. If you want to see what a Moroccan hypermarche is like (basically,
Walmart's without the cheap prices), take a taxi or get a friend to drive you to Marjane
on the outskirts of town as you're coming in from Casablanca. This rather dizzying place
opened in Marrakesh in December of 1999. There are two in Casablanca and one in
Rabat. For grocery shopping, the main advantage is selection and speed. It is definitely
an interesting cultural phenomenon.
Places of Worship
Marrakesh has a synagogue (near the ALC), a Catholic church with an American priest (as of this writing) [16], and a Protestant church where services are usually in French. Mosques, of course, are everywhere.
MlSCELLANY
Background Reading
It is highly recommended that you do some select background reading before coming to
Morocco or, if that is not possible, as soon as possible upon arrival. The titles iisted below,
Reference:
Culture Shock! Morocco: A Guide to Customs and Etiquette, Orin Hargraves (Contains much
Useful information and analysis which will save you many misunderstandings and a few dirhams.)
Cadogan Guide to Morocco, Barnaby Rogerson. Fascinating detail on neariy every site in
Morocco. Not many illustrations, but readable prose.
A Practical Guide to lslamic Monuments in Morocco, Richard Parker. Architectural guide
organized by city; learned but readable. Possibly out of print.
Insight Guide: Morocco. More and less than a guide; well written, good analysis, but weak on
Facts.
Lonely Planet: Morocco. Not as subtle as lnsight but packed with useful information.
Lonely Planet: Moroccan Arabic Phrasebook. Will get you speaking Moroccan Arabic (Derija) quickly; well organized.
Other:
Orientalism, Edward Said, is an academic but perceptive history of the western "dream" of the
"Arab-lslamic" world.
An Introduction to Islam, Frederick M. Denny; or Islam: The Straighf Path, John L. Esposito (Two
encompassing introductions to lslam by sympathetic American scholars)
A Street in Marrakech, Elizabeth W. Fernea (An American woman anthropologist’s view of Marrakech in 1971-72; it will give you an idea of how much Marrakech has changed, or not, in the last 20 years).
The best-known American writer about Morocco was, of course, Paul Bowles. It should be kept
in mind the most of Bowle's writing concentrates on aspects of Tangier life that fascinated many Westerners in the 60s and before: drug-use, homosexuality, petty thieves, magic, etc. They were
never a reflection of the mainstream of Moroccans, and are even rather dated for Tangier. Somewhat of an exception to the above is A Spider’s House, set in Fes during the
lndependence Movement.
LEGAL ISSUES
Drugs
Although you may encounter kif and hashish being smoked openly, keep in mind that it is
illegal, and some police take great pleasure in applying this law to foreigners. The inside of a
Moroccan jail is an experience no one wants to have.
Religion and Politics
Although Morocco is tolerant and has signed the Bill of Human Rights, there is still a law
on the book which prohibits trying to convert Moroccans from lslam to another religion, and any
school which enters into this can be closed down and fined heavily.
By Moroccan law, it is prohibited to publicly criticize the Royal Family, and discussions
that might lead in this direction are not encouraged.
VlSAS & OTHER DOCUMENTATlON
ldentification Cards: Moroccans must keep their identity cards with them at all times.
Likewise, you will be expected to have your passport with you. If you are uncomfortable carrying your passport with you, you should at the very least carry a plasticized photocopy of the information page and the page showing the entry stamp. If you are travelling by road outside Marrakesh, you may very rarely be asked to show your passport or residency card
by police performing routine security checks throughout Morocco. You must have your passport when you check into any hotel when traveling.
Drivers Licenses:
While the police will generally recognize drivers licenses from other countries, it is
advisable to obtain an international drivers license if you're planning to drive while in Morocco.
lnternationai licenses can easily be obtained from AAA in the United States, AA in the U.K. and
similar automobile associations in other countries. On account of the short time you will be in Morocco, your busy schedule, and your infamiliarity with Moroccan driving customs, we strongly discourage you from driving in Morocco.
Climate
The climate variations in a country like Morocco are endless. In general, though, Marrakesh,
being in a semi-desert region, is quite hot and dry in the summer and cold in the winter. The average daily maximum temperature during May is 85 and June is 90.
Useful Phone Numbers and Websites
Note: The country code for Morocco is 212. The area codes within the country are
Marrakesh=4, Fes = 5, Rabat = 7, Casablanca = 2, Tangier = 9. To dial long distance within
Morocco, dial "O", then area code followed by the number. To call Marrakesh from the Athens, GA (for example), dial 011 (for an international line), then 212, 4, and then the individual number.
Police/Emergencies 19
Firefighters 19
Medical Emergency 43-20-97
Surgical Emergency 44-80-11
Traffic accident 43-07-99
All-night pharmacy 43-42-75 or 39-02-38
Telephone info 16
Operator Assistance 12
AT&T USA Direct 00 211 00 11
MCI 00 211 00 12
British Telecom 00211 00 44
US Embassy Rabat (07)76-22-65, FAX: 76-56-61
Website: http://www.usembassy.ma/
and the special page for American citizens
US Consulate, Casablanca (02) 26-45-50
Fulbright Commission, Rabat (07) 76-41-09
US Chamber of Commerce (Casablanca) (02)311448
Tourism Office (04) 43-08-86
Marrakech Airport (04) 44-78-65
http://www.onda.org.ma/onda/affichage/arriveesI.asp?Me=1&R=6&Sr=16 For checking arrivals and departures at Casablanca airport.****
Royal Air Morocco (RAM) in Marrakech 44-62-05, 44-64-44
http://www.royalairmaroc.com/ENG/ (English or French) Royal Air Maroc
Marrakech Train Station 44-65-69
http://www.oncf.org.ma/scripts/horaires1.asp inter-city train schedules in Morocco
http://www.oncf.org.ma/scripts/tarifs1.asp inter-city train fares in Morocco
Main Bus Station (Bab Doukala) 43-39-33
CTM Gueliz: 44-83-28; Bab Doukala (04) 43-44-02
http://www.ctm.co.ma/ctm_index.htm
Other websites of interest:
http://marrakesh.aca.org.ma/ The American Language Center in Marrakech website.
http://www.morocco.com/Morocco.com , a comprehensive site.
http://lexicorient.com Covers many countries. Many beautiful photos of Morocco, plus and e-mail discussion page.
BRlEF NOTES ON THE LAND AND ITS PEOPLE
Below are some very abbreviated notes. As mentioned at the beginning of this manual, readings
from the bibliography on page 13 are highly recommended. The section has been adapted from a piece written by the director of the ALC Marrakech for Teaching EFL Outside the United States, TESOL Publications, 1992.
The Land Itself: The Kingdom of Morocco is geographically a true crossroads. If you
stand on the beach in Tangier on a clear day, you can see the coast of Spain. If you stand on a
beach of Agadir, you can look out over the Atlantic and know that about 4000 miles away is New
York. Travel over the Atlas Mountains to Zagora and you'll find a sign telling you that Timbuktu
is a 55 day camel ride to the south. in the east stretches Arab North Africa, Egypt, and the
Arabian peninsula.
Physically and climatically, Morocco is somewhat like a marriage of California (from San
Francisco south) and New Mexico: miles of coastline, mountain ranges affording skiing and
hiking through pine and cedar forests, sparsely vegetated plains broken by reddish mesas, and
finally, in the south, sand deserts with the palm trees and camels that have provided Americans
with their stereotypes of the country ever since films such as The Road to Morocco. (For a view of Marrakesh in the mid-Fifties, see Alfred Hitchcock’s The Man Who Knew Too Much, 1956. The opening scenes of this film on the bus also provide a good example of Hollywood stereotyping of Arab or Muslim people.)
Any comparison with California ends on the geographical level. Socially, Morocco is still,
to a large extent, a land of traditions where a generally tolerant and rather "organic" version of
lslam is practiced by most of the inhabitants. Like the geometric patterns so characteristic of its
decorative art, the culture of Morocco is an intricate weave of several thematic strands:
traditional, modern, Islamic, Arab, Berber, Sephardic Jew, European and African.
Marrakesh is one of the more striking examples of this interweaving of cultures and times, epitomized in the Jemalfna (pronounced Je MAALF naa) –the large open place near the entrance to the old city, which, with its snake charmers, musicians, acrobats, fortune-tellers, tourists and country folk of typically Marrakshi (Arabic for someone or something from Marrakesh).
Unlike Rabatis who are often described in Moroccan Arabic as dakhlin suq ras hum
(those who mind their own business) or Fassis, who are often described as being somewhat closed to non-fassis, the people of Marrakesh are known throughout Morocco for their warmth, their humor, and their outgoing nature. These qualities, however, may sometimes strike a newcomer from America as overly familiar or even invasive.
As in other cities of Morocco, probably the most important quality one needs in order to adjust to Marrakesh is patience. The city and its people take time to discover and appreciate.
Time: In a recent documentary shown on BBC Television, people on the street in New
York were asked to tell the interviewer when one minute had passed without looking at a watch.
Nearly everyone asked estimated a minute to be far less than what the interviewer's watch said.
This points up a very important part of adapting to life in Morocco, and perhaps to Marrakesh
more than Rabat or Casa: people coming from the West usually need to be able to slow down
their pace of life.
For the ordinary Moroccan on the street, time itself has a qualitative side to it that
sometimes frustrates Westerners. To sit for a half an hour with a shopkeeper may seem
inefficient to someone used to being able to accomplish a dozen different things in a single
morning, but for Moroccans this human contact has great value. (Needless to say, there are Americans whose lives are slower than Moroccans and Moroccans who are every bit as busy as someone living in Manhattan!)
Identity Crisis: It is also worth noting that Morocco, like many other countries in the non-
industrialized world, is undergoing complex and often painful socio-cultural adjustments, the
negative ramifications of which are exacerbated by economic strains, especially unemployment.
On a psychological level, numerous Moroccans, especially the younger generation who make
up much of the student population of the ALCs, are going through a kind of identity crisis in
which they may be simultaneously attracted and repelled by Western culture which translates
sensitivity and circumspection and should also not be surprised if many young Moroccans seem
to be pressikg you for information about the possibilities of studying, emigrating, or finding work
abroad. In dealing with such questions, you should generally be careful about raising false
hopes. You should also keep in mind that it is nearly impossible for most Moroccans to qualify
for a visa -- even a tourist visa -- to the United States!
What Language do they speak here, anyway? Of particular interest to anyone who
will be teaching a foreign language to students from Marrakesh is the fact that, in Seneral, they
are excellent language learners. Consider that in many homes in and around Marrakesh, the
s/he will start using Moroccan Arabic (derija). Upon entering elementary school, s/he must learn
standard Arabic, which is constitutionally the official language of Morocco. In the public schools,
French is taught as a second language beginning at primary levels (roughly 3rd grade in the
American system), and is seen both officially and in practice as a "language of opening" (langue
douverture). Despite the program of Arabization that has gone on for years, French remains a
vital language in Morocco, as evidenced by the fact that all science classes at the university
level are still in French.
English is offered as a "second foreign language" when students reach the first year of
high school, roughly the 9th grade in the US system. Even in the few high schools where
Spanish and German are offered as other choices, English is the overwhelming favorite. As of
this writing (June, 2000), many private schools are introducing English to 8 and 9-year olds, and
there is a proposal to do the same in public schools.
There are several factors that contribute to the tremendous popularity of English in
Morocco. One is that English is outside the Arabic-French polarity, providing an opening to
western culture/technology without being the language of the former colonists of Morocco.
Another lies in its vitality. English is the language of the most popular pop music, TV, and films
(even though these are dubbed in French), and since around 1997, the language of the Internet.
Lastly, the pedagogical approach used to teach English in high schools, despite certain
drawbacks, is generally ahead of the pedagogy used in other subjects.
What about Arabic? For those of you who have never lived in an Arab country before,
and even for some of those who have, a word of explanation about Arabic is in order. Modern
Standard Arabic (MSA) is the language of the news media, written correspondence and
documents, literature and formal speeches. Moroccan Arabic (derija, pronounced DE ri ja, with the “j” being pronounced like the “g” in “beige”) is the people's language and is generally unwritten. Both of these are derived from “fus’ha,” (classical Arabic), the Arabic of the Quran. For a Moroccan, someone (other than a scholar) speaking MSA would appear overly formal. Derija is an intimate, friendly, and rather easy language.
Islam: Though Morocco is legally-speaking a secular state, lslam remains the official
state religion and 98% of Moroccans are at least nominally Muslim of the prevalent Sunni school
(rather than the Shi'a as in Iran). It is indicative that among the titles of His Majesty King
Mohammed VI of Morocco is "Prince of Believers" (Amir al-mu’minin), an ancient title used by
the early Caliphs of Islam. So-called "lslamic fundamentalist" political movements have not
gained any real foothold in Morocco (they are, in fact, illegal) and violence perpetrated in the
name of lslam is virtually unknown. At the same time, there has been a subtle but perceptible
resurgence of lslam as a guiding force in the lives of many Moroccans. This tendency is, on the
whole, not zealously exclusive as evinced by the ubiquitous scene of a veiied Moroccan female
student (and by veiled is meant with hair covered, nof wearing a face veil) walking arm-in-arm
with a girlfriend in tight jeans. Such a sight, in fact, speaks volumes about Moroccan tolerance.
Dress: Somewhat related to the question of lslam is the question of dress. There are
many variations in the personal interpretation of what is "proper" clothing. Most city-dwelling
Moroccans are fairly tolerant in their attitudes and do not expect foreigners to adhere to local
dress codes which often vary dramatically from person to person anyway. However, this does
not mean that anything goes. Few Moroccan men wear shorts apart from sporting activities
which require them, nor do they go bare-chested except at the beach.
Moroccan women who do dress in tight jeans and low-cut tops are very aware of what
kind of response their attire will attract, and presumably know how to react, or not react,
to comments by Moroccan men. All this, however, enters into a Moroccan social dynamic which although it is interesting to us as scholars, is not directly relevant to the general guidelines for how you, as guests in Morocco, should dress. In general your dress should be in the modest rather than revealing spectrum.
Women in Morocco: The role of women in Moroccan society is undergoing dramatic changes.
Nevertheless, traditional attitudes concerning the roles of men and women are still prevalent
among both men and women in all walks of society. These attitudes may differ considerably
from those in western societies.
The greatest problems most American female students will encounter are attempts to get
attention by men on the streets, generally consisting of little more than "bonjour" or "hello." This
treatment is not reserved for foreigners. Moroccan women receive similar advances, and are
generally aware that, while extremely annoying, such advances are seldom physically
threatening. Such behavior is not acceptable and a response is not expected. Don't worry about
being "rude": it is not impolite to ignore a stranger's greetings or questions in the street; to
respond -even in a negative way - is to offer them reason to continue bothering you." It goes
without saying that invitations from unknown men to "meet their famiiies" should be flatly
refused.
If anyone becomes particularly persistent, rude, or difficult to avoid, call him to someone
else's attention. Other Moroccans- both men and women- are often more than willing to
intervene when they see someone in need of help and won't hesitate to chastise someone
whom they see behaving shamefully. If you are ever followed more than once by the same man,
contact the administration rather than try to deal with him on your own.
As in any urban situation, the best way to ensure one's safety in Morocco is by avoiding
deserted piaces and sticking to areas where there are plenty of people around to help should
you have any difficuities. Women in Morocco, more often than not, go out of the house in pairs
or groups, and you will rarely find a woman on the streets by herseif after dark. While this is by
no means necessary for teachers, having a Moroccan companion to show you around the city,
at least initially, will go a long way toward making your stay in Marrakesh an enjoyable
experience. As mentioned earlier, dressing modestly will also help.
Generally speaking, women who go out walking in the evening do so in pairs or in
groups. Single women, depending on how they are dressed, could be mistaken for prostitutes
(which do exist in Marrakesh, but certainly not in the numbers found in large US or European
cities).
Male-Female Relationships: Relations between men and women in Morocco differ
considerably from those in America and Europe. Students in the UGA-Morocco summer program should try to be sensitive to these differences, as misunderstandings can lead to hurt feelings, resentment, and occasionally physically threatening situations. Strong, non-romantic friendships between members of the opposite sex are far less common in Morocco than in Europe or the US, and these are generally formed and maintained within the structure of family gatherings, work, or school. The couples you will see walking together or in cafes are most often their fiances. This is not to say that male- female friendships do not exist.
Should you find yourself drawn into a relationship that seems to be moving in a more intimate than a platonic direction, whether you're male or female, make sure you know what you're getting into. Outside of schoolyard flirtations, much of the dating that does go on in Morocco occurs with marriage as the eventual aim. Some couples, in fact, are not allowed to date until after their engagement. If you have no intention of getting married with a Moroccan in whom you are interested, it's wise to make sure that the other interested party (and his or her family) share your feelings. If you find yourself in an ambiguous situation of this type, seek the advice of a Moroccan friend or the directors of the program.
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